Jil Sander herself had a tumultuous relationship with her company after she sold it. Sort of like King Lear, she was upset about what happened after she gave up control. Her tradition was very German Rationalist, as if Dieter Rams designed clothes. The label has tried a few designers, they still produced collections in the«house spirit». In the USA«flag ship» store on Madison Ave only the women’s line has been available, which makes the men’s runway show a total tease. The bad news it still is, even with the debut of men’s in NYC. In line with many top creative clothes brands most of the runway is not made, it is just a tease to get you in the shop. The bored shop assistant who told me this essentially stopped talking to me once he told me this, and was clearly glad to see me leave, so he could get back to his empty store.
K. K.
Place rating: 5 New York, NY
Kudos to Raf Simons for the fabulous shoes. Although I admire the amazing foot art sculptures from other designers, Jil Sander has amazing foot art sculptures I can actually wear. The other night, I wore a gray patent pair from Spring 07, to an event at Soho House. Later, I walked all over the Meatpacking area, ending in the West Village for a late dinner with a friend. Then, I strolled all the way home. That’s a few hours of standing and walking in these things. Not usually possible with shoes that look this good. The silver shoes(see photo) are only about an inch higher than the gray, but harder to wear for long stretches. Still, wearing these are fun. The fabulous razor clutch, a gift from someone equally fabulous, only fits a phone, credit cards, and a couple of keys. Period. Total zen minimalism. I also found a pair of sleek half boots that are pure art. They have some sort of technology that makes them feel almost like sneakers. The heel is much higher than I’d like, but they really are comfortable enough to wear all day. The clothing is beautifully constructed with delicious materials. I recently purchased a beautifully cut shirt, made from a cotton so fine it has the feel of silk. Cotton shirts are usually too bulky for me, but this one is beautifully streamlined with a glove fit. Raf Simons designs are subtle, modern, chic, and wonderful to wear. Tip: the sales here are good. *A Jil Sander shop is opening near Nolita very soon.*
T B.
Place rating: 4 NY, NY
Move it Jil, Miu Miu is on her/his way. Jil Sander illustrates the not so subtle realities of design, inspiration and a buyout. I have long loved Jil Sander’s clothing– so modern, so contemporary and so clean. I was disheartened by the struggles that she faced under the reign of Prada and wondered what the future held for this iconic brand. Since that time, Raf Simons has breathed newer and somewhat profitable life into these collections; I continue to enjoy my visits to this store. The women’s wear and men’s wear always seem to have a certain androgynous look that I find reassuring(don’t ask). The accessories could be vamped up a bit, but overall this is a great and intellectual space in which to shop and purchase so you can take these textile essays home with you. As this location is closing to make way for Miu Miu, I look forward to interpreting a new store concept under Simon’s vision. Also, it will be nice to finally see all what Miu Miu has to offer in the United States for a change– including men’s.