Nice selection of well designed and interesting items, but a pushy sales staff that doesn’t give you a receipt for purchases unless you ask for it. This can get you a big fine from the police, because you are required by law to get a receipt for purchases, to ensure the merchant is paying tax. Fortunately, they usually let tourists off without the fine, but still. To update, it was not a misunderstanding. I paid in cash, and it was a significant amount, and the merchant was hoping to not have to record it and pay tax on it. By the act of printing the receipt there is either a paper or electronic record that the Italian government receives and so of course the merchant must pay taxes on this amount. I’ve lived in Italy. I know the game. Don’t try to take advantage of tourists– it is not nice, even if they probably won’t get in trouble with the tax police.