Centro Botanero Lulu

I’ve had so much extraordinary Mexican food between Summer and Macon Ave’s in the Berclair/​Nutbush area of Memphis that I always have my head on a swivel for new restaurants, stores, and trucks when I’m in the area. It almost feels like gold prospecting. On a recent Saturday night, I noticed a new establishment in the former location of Fuego Maya’s (R.I.P.). The parking lot was slammed, and the place was full like it was an annex of Alchemy or something. And the name made me smile. That turned out to be the last time.
I returned on a slow week night. Upon entering Centro Botanero Lulu, I was pleased to see those Mayan pyramid paintings on the walls from the previous tenant. Enough remnants from Fuego Maya’s to tease my nostalgic side, but the resemblance breaks down from there. Lulu has a pool table just inside the door and a bar at the far end of the room. These were the popular ends of the room. Tables and booths occupy most of the left and center of the room, while a good portion of the right side was empty. I suspect it may serve as a dance floor when the urge hits, or the music pummels you into submission. Lulu’s definitely has the sound system to accommodate. It was a new experience to hear a place backing their mariachi trumpets with a deep subwoofer attack.
The menu is one of the most basic I’ve seen for a Mexican restaurant, which convinced me that Lulu may be more concerned with watering than feeding its customers (proof #1). A language barrier became apparent when my server came, so I went with one of my staples when communication is an issue: burrito al pastor. No pastor, I was told. Steak or chicken. My watering hole impression was further solidified (proof #2). I didn’t notice until I was about to leave, but there is a large percentage of the menu devoted to Honduran dishes. Another brave soul should try them.
Fuego Maya’s was famous for its salsa. You won’t get chips and salsa at Lulu. Tapatio and Valentina are at the table for your food if you like. There were no Mexican sodas or beverages, just Coke products. And watch the meat. My burrito had some of the fattiest beef I’ve ever put in my mouth. Besides that, it didn’t taste bad. The rice tasted like butter. I didn’t bring alcohol into the equation, but the selection of Mexican beers is adequate if typical (proof #3).
Lulu may turn out to be the next culinary diamond in the area. But I doubt it. I hope I’m wrong and just caught them on an off night. I can’t help but pull for a place called Lulu. It’s certainly a colorful place, and judging by the weekend crowd, something fun is going on there. I got an idea from the tongue-​kissing couple in the booth in front of me (proof #4).
There are numerous fine Mexican restaurants in Berclair. Lulu isn’t one of them, at least not right now. I don’t like to give one star reviews, especially as a first review. So I’ll just put a qualifier on my two star review: I took it for the team tonight, fellas. You can thank me later. Such is the life of the trailblazing Unilocaler.
Oh yeah, cash only.