St Mary At Hill Church

Tucked away on Lovat Lane, St-​Mary-​at-​Hill is one of London’s oldest
churches. Although much rebuilt, it has a surprisingly light and
spacious interior.
The
church is first mentioned in 1177, but may have existed as early as the
11^th century, being on the route from Billingsgate Quay to the City.
The steep rise from the river gave the church its name ‘St Mary on the
hill’. It had close links with the
nearby fish market at Billingsgate, and the famous composer Thomas
Tallis was organist here 1538 – 9.
The interior of the church was
badly damaged in the Great Fire in 1666, but, under the
guidance of Sir Christopher Wren, it was rebuilt and reopened by 1677.
The
original surviving north and south walls were retained, as well as
the brickwork of the tower, but the church was
extended to the east and new windows inserted. The new interior had a
coffered dome and barrel vaults in a Greek Cross pattern, supported on
four large Corinthian columns. The tower was replaced by the present
design in 1787 – 8, and the interior was modified in 1848 – 9 with new ceilings and
plasterwork, and two new windows, cut into the chancel vault.
Surviving
the Blitz in 1940, the church which until then had ‘the least spoiled
and the most gorgeous interior in the City’ according to Betjeman
succumbed to fire in 1988, which gutted the interior. The restoration
retained the organ and the 17^th century woodwork at the west end, but the
pews were replaced by chairs and the reredos by the present large
curtain.
The church does however retain some interesting wall
monuments, as well as the fine William Hill organ installed in 1848. It
is now much in demand as a concert venue. The parish services are held
on Wednesday lunchtimes, with a Lutheran congregation on Sundays.

St. Mary at Hill is located in the heart of the City, near Pudding Lane. It must have been one of the first churches damaged in the Great Fire of 1666, since it is located just blocks from the fire’s origin in Pudding Lane. St. Mary’s at Hill was first mentioned circa 1177, and is truly a survivor. In addition to being gutted in the Great Fire (rebult by Wren), it was almost demolished in 1894 during the building of the Underground. The church was badly damaged by fire in 1988. I’ve been told that restoration work is almost, but not quite, completed.
St. Mary’s is tucked in among winding lanes. I believe the main entrance is on Lovat Lane, with the back of the church on the street named St. Mary Hill. I imagine the area gives an idea of how the old City would have looked, with buildings built literally contiguous to each other.
I gave St. Mary at Hill three stars instead of four because it was closed the day I was there, so I didn’t see the interior. I will definitely go back.