We have been going to Mariano’s for some years during our visits to Ortigia. Mariano’s has grown during this time, but the food remains truly Sicilian and well prepared. Sit down with three or four friends and order the antipasto: roughly 10 plates will arrive, and you will be lucky to have room for a half-plate of pasta. Things finish with Sicilian liquors, and perhaps some shaved ginger curls. Cost is moderate.